Starting from Nairobi; me and my lovely travel company of Jessie and Emily Singer, we head for the:
DAY 1
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
This is the area North of Nairobi that used to be known as the 'white highlands'. It boasts the Aberdare ranges and 2nd highest mountain in Africa- Mt Kenya and it forms the eastern boundary of the riftvalley. Its densely populated as its the heartland of the kikuyu people as evidenced by the homesteads all the way through Thika, Makuyu, Sagana, Karatina, kiganjo,Naromoru, Nanyuki, Timau. Its fertile and well watered -the reason why the 'white' settlers chose it for agriculture.
Nanyuki
The matatu takes you to Nanyuki town on the slopes of Mt Kenya. In Nairobi; the matatus leave from Tea Room Stage at the Juction of River rd and the matatu crowded Accra Rd. They leave whenever there are enough passengers; and for this its advisable to opt for the shuttle- 7 seater 'luxury shuttles'-shs.450 and shs 500 or above on holidays. The 10 seaters are also a good option. This journey is 2-2.5 hrs due to the traffic on Thika Rd.
There is a railway which is definitely not an option except for the sheer fun of it-it takes well over 10 hrs to get to Naromoru!!!
I grew up not far from this town which dates back 1907 when the 'white' settlers used it as a trading center and for socializing. Despite being a small town today; its name precedes it, as its home to the Kenyan Air force, Artillery and the British Army. It is also a boundary town of 3 provinces - Central, Rift Valley and Eastern.
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| Odile's House in Nanyuki |
There are a few things to indulge in this town raging from the night life at the Buccaneers at Sportee (sportsmans Arms hotel), the wildlife conservancies, sanctuaries like the sweet waters.
We spend the night down Lunatic lane at a lovely lady's house- Odile Keane. After a nice warm shower, dinner and fire, our day 1 was done.
DAY 2
Nanyuki-Isiolo
After a morning walk in the pristine backyard down to the river at Odile's house we head up North to Texas (The Fronter town of Isiolo).
This drive takes you through wheat fields and vast grazing farms just on the side of the Great Mountain of the Gods. You will not miss the hoards of casual workers working green houses along the road. A few kilometers from the Meru Junction, look out for the entrance to Lewa Wildlife Conservancy.
Isiolo
I have never been to a more dusty place in my life! However the small
frontier town of Isiolo has an ambience and welcoming feeling. Security problems are sporadic and you dont get the feeling while you are there as there are fewer guns visible now. It used to be the 'mwisho wa lami' but now the tarmac road is well laid all the way to Laisamis and its said it will go all the way to Moyale hence making travel to Ethiopia easier and safer, and I guess even trade. The overland safaris of Cape to Cairo will definitely restart as this stretch from samburu - Moyale Kenya used to be the problem. After cleaning up at my aunts house; we 
then venture into town and relax at Bomen hotel for a cold beer. Although there are lots of things to do in this town like visiting the bracelet factory, hitting Frontier Club or visit to local manyattas, we opt to plan on how to get to Marsabit and the Loiyangalani. We also get nice and cheap bracelets from these sketchy guys who one ofcourse becomes a good friend of mine as I am Rasta to him.
We realize that going to Marsabit-> North Horr-> Loiyangalani might take more days than we have on our hands, so opt to go to Maralal and hopefully find a way to Baragoi and into Loiyangalani.
DAY 4- Isiolo->Wamba-> Maralal
Having booked the earliest matatu to Wamba the day before, we get to the stage at 9 am and dont leave until 11.30 am. While waiting, our stroll into town brings all the blacksmiths, and we blend in with the locals by buying a huge arsernal of swords, knives and bronze bracelets.
Heading up north through Archers Post, and samburu land, you leave Samburu National Park, Shaba National Reserve and Buffallo Springs behind and then branching off West towards Wamba on a dirt road. Note the old acclaimed Babie Coach is not an option- there are occasional matatus. Kshs. 350 + kshs. 350 to Maralal.
Wamba is 90 km Northwest of Isiolo through acacia scrub and mountain and sand country. North east of Wamba is the famours Mathew's Range- a naturalists mine. Mt Warges (2,688m) is prominent all through the journey, others are- Mathew's South Peak-2,284m, Lolokwe-1,852m, and Poror-2,581m. I immediately decide that these mountains will be in my future bushwhacking plans- wait for it. Who knows- this might become and itinerary for Williams Travel Co.
In Wamba we stop over to stretch and change matatus; and also, catch a warm beer at the cyber space bar. There is a nice guest house with single/double rooms here, -Stato Guest House.
The road to Maralal has lots of wildlife if you are lucky to spot it and breath taking views like looking down into the Lerochi Plateau. Its quite green as you near Maralal and the drive from isiolo takes wel
l over 8 hours. Here you will be met like us by the "Plastic Boys". It helps to be polite to them as they will show you around. They can be a bit annoying especially to female travelers like they were to Jessie.
We settle for accommodation at "Sunbird Guest House"- clean,quiet and cheap. You can special favour for a beer since they don't have a bar - nowander it was expired. The meals which take long are also a little expensive.
The town itself has basic ammenities although very dusty. You will see alot of traditionally garbed Samburu men with blankets, spears, beads and ocre styled hairs- they are not dressed up for the tourists.
DAY 3 Maralal-Nyahururu.After breakfast at Hard Rock Cafe; we realise after calling "Baby Amu"- the town merchant who has trucks going to Loiyangalani and also with the plastic boys, that its impossible to go to L.Turkana, since Emily has to fly in 3 days.
It is possible to do short hikes around the town or visit manyattas-for ceremonies like the wedding we are invited but decline.
We decide to head down to Nyahururu and see the T-Falls (Thompson's Falls). Getting into and out Maralal is as tricky. We get an offer to take a Police landcruiser to Nyahururu but then meet a teacher going with his family to Nakuru and hitch a ride- or overpay inorder for the plastic boys who found it for us to get something.
The ride is long through rough road and dust, ranches and loads of wildlife in the ranches. The driver says the road is relatively dangerous and when we reach Suguta Lol Marmar, he splits his money and hides it under the steering wheel, into the socks, wife's bra and other places. He says every week a car is car jacked by pokot and samburu layabouts especially at a spot called " 2 things"- 'either you make or dont'
After 6 hours we check into Thompson's Falls Lodge and pitch tent next to a big overland truck with several dutch families.
After a warm shower, we have a huge dinner in their dining room facing the falls and sit by the fire place in the bar and doze off except for Emily.
Nyahururu is the highest town in kenya at 2,360m and the climate is amazing although at times thought to be cold with occassional frost falling and at times heavy hailstorms, with huge blocks of ice.
The town like Nanyuki is just a few kilometers north of the equator and is equally old and the railway reached here in 1929. The settlers also found it ideal and even had a racecourse. Thompson's Falls dropping 75 m were name T Falls by explorer Joseph Thompson after his father. Note you will have to pay to see the falls to the county council- they have to have yellow overcoats. There is trio of kikuyu dancers will break into one once they see you coming down and jump right to you and take pics with you, right after which they ask for money!! 200 per person!! You can give the much you want since the pics are amazing ;)
DAY 4-Nyahururu->Nairobi
There is a series of souvenir shops outside the lodge that we venture into and then pack up to head back to the city but not before taking pics with the kikuyu dancers- enjoy!!\
.
The trip is great and pretty easy to do with enough time.
IDEAL:
> Nairobi-Isiolo-Marsabit-North Horr and Into Loiyangalani.-Baragoi- Maralal-Nairobi. (alternatively also cross the lake to Kalokol and Lodwar- Kitale or Marich Pass then Nairobi.
> Nairobi-Maralal-Baragoi-Loiyangalani, but the easiest with a night over in Kitale is the Lodwar side.
After a morning walk in the pristine backyard down to the river at Odile's house we head up North to Texas (The Fronter town of Isiolo).
This drive takes you through wheat fields and vast grazing farms just on the side of the Great Mountain of the Gods. You will not miss the hoards of casual workers working green houses along the road. A few kilometers from the Meru Junction, look out for the entrance to Lewa Wildlife Conservancy.
Isiolo
I have never been to a more dusty place in my life! However the small
frontier town of Isiolo has an ambience and welcoming feeling. Security problems are sporadic and you dont get the feeling while you are there as there are fewer guns visible now. It used to be the 'mwisho wa lami' but now the tarmac road is well laid all the way to Laisamis and its said it will go all the way to Moyale hence making travel to Ethiopia easier and safer, and I guess even trade. The overland safaris of Cape to Cairo will definitely restart as this stretch from samburu - Moyale Kenya used to be the problem. After cleaning up at my aunts house; we 
then venture into town and relax at Bomen hotel for a cold beer. Although there are lots of things to do in this town like visiting the bracelet factory, hitting Frontier Club or visit to local manyattas, we opt to plan on how to get to Marsabit and the Loiyangalani. We also get nice and cheap bracelets from these sketchy guys who one ofcourse becomes a good friend of mine as I am Rasta to him.We realize that going to Marsabit-> North Horr-> Loiyangalani might take more days than we have on our hands, so opt to go to Maralal and hopefully find a way to Baragoi and into Loiyangalani.
DAY 4- Isiolo->Wamba-> Maralal
Having booked the earliest matatu to Wamba the day before, we get to the stage at 9 am and dont leave until 11.30 am. While waiting, our stroll into town brings all the blacksmiths, and we blend in with the locals by buying a huge arsernal of swords, knives and bronze bracelets.
Heading up north through Archers Post, and samburu land, you leave Samburu National Park, Shaba National Reserve and Buffallo Springs behind and then branching off West towards Wamba on a dirt road. Note the old acclaimed Babie Coach is not an option- there are occasional matatus. Kshs. 350 + kshs. 350 to Maralal.
Wamba is 90 km Northwest of Isiolo through acacia scrub and mountain and sand country. North east of Wamba is the famours Mathew's Range- a naturalists mine. Mt Warges (2,688m) is prominent all through the journey, others are- Mathew's South Peak-2,284m, Lolokwe-1,852m, and Poror-2,581m. I immediately decide that these mountains will be in my future bushwhacking plans- wait for it. Who knows- this might become and itinerary for Williams Travel Co.
In Wamba we stop over to stretch and change matatus; and also, catch a warm beer at the cyber space bar. There is a nice guest house with single/double rooms here, -Stato Guest House.
The road to Maralal has lots of wildlife if you are lucky to spot it and breath taking views like looking down into the Lerochi Plateau. Its quite green as you near Maralal and the drive from isiolo takes wel
l over 8 hours. Here you will be met like us by the "Plastic Boys". It helps to be polite to them as they will show you around. They can be a bit annoying especially to female travelers like they were to Jessie.We settle for accommodation at "Sunbird Guest House"- clean,quiet and cheap. You can special favour for a beer since they don't have a bar - nowander it was expired. The meals which take long are also a little expensive.
The town itself has basic ammenities although very dusty. You will see alot of traditionally garbed Samburu men with blankets, spears, beads and ocre styled hairs- they are not dressed up for the tourists.
DAY 3 Maralal-Nyahururu.After breakfast at Hard Rock Cafe; we realise after calling "Baby Amu"- the town merchant who has trucks going to Loiyangalani and also with the plastic boys, that its impossible to go to L.Turkana, since Emily has to fly in 3 days.
It is possible to do short hikes around the town or visit manyattas-for ceremonies like the wedding we are invited but decline.
We decide to head down to Nyahururu and see the T-Falls (Thompson's Falls). Getting into and out Maralal is as tricky. We get an offer to take a Police landcruiser to Nyahururu but then meet a teacher going with his family to Nakuru and hitch a ride- or overpay inorder for the plastic boys who found it for us to get something.
The ride is long through rough road and dust, ranches and loads of wildlife in the ranches. The driver says the road is relatively dangerous and when we reach Suguta Lol Marmar, he splits his money and hides it under the steering wheel, into the socks, wife's bra and other places. He says every week a car is car jacked by pokot and samburu layabouts especially at a spot called " 2 things"- 'either you make or dont'
After 6 hours we check into Thompson's Falls Lodge and pitch tent next to a big overland truck with several dutch families.
After a warm shower, we have a huge dinner in their dining room facing the falls and sit by the fire place in the bar and doze off except for Emily.
Nyahururu is the highest town in kenya at 2,360m and the climate is amazing although at times thought to be cold with occassional frost falling and at times heavy hailstorms, with huge blocks of ice.
The town like Nanyuki is just a few kilometers north of the equator and is equally old and the railway reached here in 1929. The settlers also found it ideal and even had a racecourse. Thompson's Falls dropping 75 m were name T Falls by explorer Joseph Thompson after his father. Note you will have to pay to see the falls to the county council- they have to have yellow overcoats. There is trio of kikuyu dancers will break into one once they see you coming down and jump right to you and take pics with you, right after which they ask for money!! 200 per person!! You can give the much you want since the pics are amazing ;)
DAY 4-Nyahururu->Nairobi
There is a series of souvenir shops outside the lodge that we venture into and then pack up to head back to the city but not before taking pics with the kikuyu dancers- enjoy!!\
.
The trip is great and pretty easy to do with enough time.
IDEAL:
> Nairobi-Isiolo-Marsabit-North Horr and Into Loiyangalani.-Baragoi- Maralal-Nairobi. (alternatively also cross the lake to Kalokol and Lodwar- Kitale or Marich Pass then Nairobi.
> Nairobi-Maralal-Baragoi-Loiyangalani, but the easiest with a night over in Kitale is the Lodwar side.
Check out more pictures on 'Williams Travels Group on Facebook.
ReplyDeleteEnjoy and look out for Uganda Trip.
This was a fun trip, the north is so different from all the rest of Kenya.
ReplyDeleteNext time we get to Lake Turkana and fish for a giant perch..then cross over to Ethiopia.
ReplyDeleteWe still have Ethiopia and Machupichu pending. x
ReplyDelete