Williams Travels, The Green Travel Company.

We are moving towards being the only accredited green travel company in East Africa. Along with our new website will be our environmental management policy, Green Travel Tips, Responsible tourism policy and accreditation for Eco Travel Company.

Welcome to Williams Travels, the East African Green Travel company. We recognize that the East African Plains and wilderness areas receive thousands of tourists annually and inevitably leave an impact on the environment and local people.  We are a responsible ecotourism and conservation company centered on voluntourism and Outback travels. Our ethos is guided by the belief that the remaining wilderness areas are the redemption to our suffering planet. We include local communities in our safaris and are guided by environmental ethics of Leave No Trace.

Williams Travels offers affordable green, adventure tours to the best East African destinations, Including Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda and Ethiopia.

Our safaris and expeditions are either backpacking or holiday’s style, offering experiences that will inspire and challenge your wild view. Whether you are looking at Wildlife safaris in the Great parks of Tsavo, Masai Mara reserve, Ngorongoro or Serengeti, Wilderness adventures to the roof of Africa Kilimanjaro, Mountain of the gods- Mt Kenya or off the beaten track in Masai Country, The white sand beaches of Kenya, Zanzibar or living with local Masai people, we have something for everyone.

William Travels runs budget backpacking trips in the best of the remote wilderness areas of East Africa guided by the best nature guides in East Africa. We cater for gap year students, volunteers who want to work and travel at the same time in conservation projects and education. For further information, go through our website and make inquiries through the contacts provided.

Explore the planet, Discover yourself with The Green Travel Company.

Watamu Lamu Trip

Watamu Lamu Tamu Trip Slideshow: Will’s trip from Nairobi, Kenya to 2 cities Lamu and Watamu was created by TripAdvisor. See another Kenya slideshow. Create a free slideshow with music from your travel photos.

NOLS / LNT COURSE -TANZANIA 2010.

THE OUTDOOR ETHICS EXPEDITION

It has been a while since i wrote either on this blog or my other pages like Williams Travels page on Facebook except for the occasional updates. This is mainly because i have been out and about; and maybe enjoying the outdoors a bit too much and ignoring the nauseating feeling of sitting behind a desk in-front of a computer. Pole [sorry] for those who have to do but for many outdoorsy people like me; that is not the most fun thing. 

"Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature. It is a most fulfilling endeavor"

I have for the last 2 months done a bunch or a series of outdoor stuff- climbing, hiking, camping and outdoor course. It the latter that I am going to write about in the this article.

"The human spirit needs places where nature has not been rearranged by the hand of man"

 

For 9 days at the end of Nov 10' and beginning of Dec 10'; I did a NOLS [National Outdoor Leadership School](nols.edu) in the north Frontier district of Tanzania- Longido north of Arusha. 

We started in Arusha with

• James Kagambi-KG [senior instructor NOLS, Patagonia,chile, 
• Muthoni Muriithi- NOLS instructor and now the director of East Africa Operations.
• Also in the group was David Summers- NOLS Director Australia and New Zealand who a guest instructor and touring Africa. 
• The participants/students were people from all different areas and occupations- 3 kenyans { Will-Williams Travels, John Githae -Idyllic Mystelly house-Kiambu, Boni Muthoni -500 Smiles } 3 Tanzanians; Elias Msemo- Africa Environments, Sameer -Africa Environments, Lawrence- Bushbound.

The mission was to scout for routes, activities and water reconnaissance for future NOLS courses in the area.In return we were offered an LNT Masters Course.
LNT-Leave No Trace is an american and an international program designed to assist outdoor enthusiasts with their decisions about how to reduce their impacts when they hike, camp, picnic, run, bike, hunt, paddle, ride horses, fish, ski or climb. The program strives to educate all those who enjoy the outdoors about the nature of their recreational impacts as well as techniques to prevent and minimize such impacts. Leave No Trace is best understood as an educational and ethical program, not as a set of rules and regulations.
http://lnt.org/ 

Packing up at Lush Garden

DAY 1  
Arusha to Tingatinga
"Good Management is when we plan for the future."

Meeting in Lush Garden Hotel, Arusha and parking up for 10 days trip.

After last minute shopping we drove to Usa River for nyama choma lunch and proceeded on to Sanya juu and Tinga Tinga passing the slopes of Kilimanjaro to the North west of the moutnain, North of Mt Meru and south west of Longido. We spend the night at Mzee Lindi's house- a masai elder who has a nice homestead unlike his neighbours.

Lovely dinner of beef curry

We all chip in to make dinner of meat curry with ugali on the new MSR stoves and a pressure cooker!!

Our first meal in the bundus was amazing and especially after driving for 79 km from Arusha and now were below kilimanjaro in the heart of masailand and thats why I had to blend in.

 
DAY 2
Tingatinga to Kitumbeine
   "Man's heart away from nature becomes hard."

The morning here was amazing despite not being able to see the sunrise over Mt Kilimanjaro. Today we drive again through the arid plains north west of Kilimanjaro. We are looking for water and the masai folks we meet help us with this. The only problem here is that its extremely hot and nowhere to shade so we have to drive and no water for miles. On top of this is; its, a hunting block and as i later came to find out its been given to the Arabs who apparently ..there are alot of questions here..

Female Ostriches

This being Tanzania and neighboring Amboseli in Kenya we inevitably come across wildlife. The gracious giraffe like Waller's Gazelle or Gerenuk [Litocranius walleri], Ostrich, snakes,Masai Giraffe [Giraffa camelopardalis tipplechiski], Lesser Kudu, Grants Gazelles and Tommy gazelle. 

one of our vans stuck in a sandy river bank

The countryside here is dotted with Acacia, sand banks and seasonal lowland marshes. Here a 4x4 only works best since our 2nd vehicle had few difficulties. 

After a lunch in dusty town of Longido and along the Nairobi-Namanga-Arusha highway and 60 km from Tinga tinga village.

Fire in the plains

From Longido we head west towards Kitumbeine and again through another hunting block where indeed we encountered hunters; who were not amused, with our intruding their privacy. How? We had stopped to wait for the slower van and was standing on a high rock!!!!

After another dusty bumpy ride we arrive at Kitumbeine- a town in the bottom of the riftvalley sorrounded by volcanoes to the west and hilly escarpent in the east. its a town/village of a few shops and posho [cereal] mills and lots of masais donned in bright colored shukas.
Here we meet the village chairman at the village square/administration block and after discussions we proceed to another mountain village [Oloonkaash] trust me thats not the name but its definitely in Langataapash location. 

This village is quite unique as its the home to the 'farming masais'- Il Kwavi subgroup of the masai.
The masai were grouped into 2- The farmers- Il kwavi living in the highlands especially around Kitumbi where we were and the Il Purko who are pastrolists- moving around with their animals.

Soon the blue sky is covered in clouds, the vegetation is green, farms full of green corn and  bean plants, rain forests and muddy masai!!! never saw this before as its very paradoxical!!

After a long discussion with the village elders and  the headmaster of the local primary school we finally pitch tents in the school compound. We of-course pay for this including the Tanzanians- a figure which the headmaster fudges up. 

DAY 3 climbing to the summit

"The human spirit needs places where nature has not been rearranged by the hand of man"

Today we attempted Mt Kitumbeine hiking through the farmlands into the forest which is very strictly conserved by the locals. It is a deep rain forest with wet dirt, lush green undergrowth and canopy trees and lots of forest biodiverisity. Soon we are on the summit and we have another outdoor LNT course on the summit.

James Kagambi- KG; introduces the principles of LNT on top of Mt Kitumbeine (2865m)

After descent to the school we hike down another 8 km to the Kitumbeine/village that we had met the chief. Here we are offered a field behind the administration block to be our campsite for night. At least you can find coke in this village and meat!

DAY 4 No pack donkeys; so food and classes

"The most important education is that which leads to personal survival. "

Today we spend doing classes in the bushes and doing presentation on the 7 principles of LNT in the Wilderness [see next blog on LNT]

And me and John made mandazi too [doughnuts]

DAY 5 The hike of the century-Kitumbeine to Gelai Bomba
"Let your walks now be a little more adventurous."

Begin of the long hike to Gelai Bomba.

After the donkeys got 'sick' for tomorrow's hike we decide to carry everything to Gelai Bomba- 31 km!!

Hiking in 40 degrees with no water.

Do you see Oldoinyo Lengai?

This is gonna be our longest hike and challenging one as there are no springs or water pipes on the way. We leave in the cool of dawn and hike at 8km/hr and lower as the day progressed. Soon its oven hot and dusty as we walk through a depression with no vegetaion- say more or less a desert. 

Crazy swirl winds dot the horizons and from here the volcanoes of the Crater highlands are all visible including the highest mountain in Tanzania Loolmalassin(3648m); others are  :- Gelai (2941m), Kitumbeine (2865m), Ker Massi (2621m), Oldonyo Lengai-the active volcano (2941m), Engaruka etc

Amazing views of the rift-valley from the vantage of Gelai Meru-Goi village

And by 4 pm we are crossing the Gelai airstrip and soon in the masai town of Gelai Bomba (Bomba meaning water pipe-means there is water here). Here we down 3 cokes each, Msemo negotiates for 2 live chickens and a camping ground in the village- the local school.It has been a long day and we have the best sleep in days. Tomorrow is a long day to the summit of Gelai!

DAY 6 Masai in the mountains
"Those who know nothing of foreign languages know nothing of their own. "

John Githae and Boni Wa Muthoni take a break

This is again is a muscle cracking day; we leave Gelai Bomba with our gear and food and hike/climb in the hot sun to "milimani" mountain village of 'Gelai Meru-Goi'. This is the most remote village we have been to and the most ideal for wilderness courses. 

The hike has water points in every 20 minutes and no roads up to this village. Here the masai take care of their cows and a bit of farming with their ox-drawn ploughs. 

After talking with the village chiefs we have a nice spot in the middle of the village next to the watering hole! 

 Draining the blood from our dinner

After a good rest, -we the students decide to treat the instructor with a token appreciation. We buy a whole 'LIVE' goat!! which the expert [will] ..slaughters to the amazement of the masai's. 

And that was another day well rested after a tiring hike and the views here are amazing as we are quite high on the western escarpment of the rift valley.

BBQ Masai style

As a token the village chief get a whole leg and they sit in a circle, take out their knives which every masai man must carry and in less than five minutes the 3 men had just bones in front of them.

DAY 7 Saved by the old man and GPS on the mountain

"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves."

This proves quite a demanding day despite the climb to the summit not being as steep. I guess its because the masai guide lied to us about knowing a short cut and having been up the mountain many times- He never was!!! KG regrets not using his maps and GPS. However the masai guy sources help from an old masai man who we nickname the director of masai operations here- as he knows his way and quite the guide.

John and Sameer hike down to Gelai Village

After struggling to get to the summit we realize that the summit is quite illusory- keeps getting further and further with more hills and more and more bamboo. The masai guide refuses to go further- reason; 'there is bufallo in there- no one has ever gone in there!!

We decide to head down to make time to get back to the lower village for the pick up by vans.

This day is relatively easy except that the heavens decide to pour and by the time we get to Gelai Bomba we are soaking wet- well we have our rain gear- 'Plan & prepare before travel' is the 1st principle of LNT.

Its all hands on the van stuck in the river bed

We meet up with the land-cruiser and our good old van and by nightfall we are in Kitumbeine village for another night here!

DAY 8 Officially LNT Master Educators
" Don't blow it - good planets are hard to find."
 

I receive my certificates, hat and badge

Today is the end of our course and after final presentations and revisions we head out for Arusha for the graduation party!!!! 

Here the 6 of us are certified as LNT Master Educators! C/O of NOLS Rocky Mountains and LNT Center for Outdoor Ethics.

The NOLS/LNT Arusha 10' Team
From Left { KG-Senior NOLS instructor, Sameer [Africa Environments],Boni [500 Smiles], Muthoni [NOLS Director East Africa, John [Idellil Mystley House, Lawrence [Bush Bound], David[NOLS Dir Australia], Elias Msemo [Africa Environments], Me [Williams Travels]}

And yes that is the spleandor of the last remaining wilderness areas. This team can help you, your friends,organization or country learn how to minimize your impact on the environment. Check out the 7 Principles of Leave No Trace for both Front Country and Back Country in my next blog post all courtesy of the LNT center for outdoor ethics.

"We never know the worth of water till the well is dry!!"

Places in Tanzania; Moshi and Arusha,

ACCOMMODATION IN MOSHI
I am writing this from the restaurant at one of the nicest ; and i mean impeccably clean, good reception - PANAMA HOTEL.
I have been to all the hostels and hotels in this town and have sampled their services, cleanliness of the rooms, shower and wash rooms, food etc.
These are all strategically situtated which is quite striking as compared to many towns-they are located along one street or say general area which makes it easy to hotel/hostel 'hop' to compare prices.  They all have different scores for my parameters and most scored poorly on customer service and sanitation. I will however say that compared to all, there is a uniformity of prices which look like a harmonized one although higher for the standard. This in normally good since then you will not be paying too much as compared to other

NEW CASTLE HOTEL
This goes first as its the place i spent the night only because it was late and i was exhausted after 9 hours on the bus from Dar. They have several floors of rooms that are all double with the only choice being self contained or shared bathroom.
SHARED: Tshs 15,000.00. This is a bad option as the shared toilets are in not in a usable condition; but, maybe its because i arrived late 6 pm?
DOUBLE:
This was my option and was guaranteed of hot water and flashing toilet although conviniently after i  unpacked the water ran out and the fan stopped working.
I later demanded water and the showers run water!! well not hot and i only got hot water in the morning. This room goes for Tshs.20,000.00.
There is a slow bar on the top floor with a good view of Mt Kilimanjaro. You wanna take the most drunk beer as in my case my Tusker was expired.

PANAMA HOTEL
The only place worth the extra dollar in town! Less than one year old and situated in the middle of the city. The hotel seems well managed as i got to meet the manager Mr Ben (who is from Kenya) and he  gave me a  tour of the rooms and facilities. The rooms are impecably clean compared to all the places I have been in the town. With the large, clean european bathrooms with individual water heaters hence guaranteed of hot water, they are also quite spacious. The double rooms are huge with big bed with bright white sheets, air conditioning that works,  TV and a balcony with a view of town and kilimanjaro.
The restaurant is nicely decored and cleand with glass tables and central buffet, lounge chairs and a plasma tv. The bar also the restaurant has cold beers and assorted drinks for a reasonable cost., -Tshs. 2000 for a beers!!!
The costs for accommodation are quite reasonable for the services that you will get.

RESIDENTS                             
                                                      BB                     HB                                   FB
SINGLE                                     40,000                 $48                             $60
DOUBLE                                    60,000                 $76                             $100
TWIN                                         70,000                $76                            $100
TRIPLE                                       75,000                $99                             $135

NON RESIDENTS
                                                     BB                           HB                                FB
SINGLE                                        $40                           $50                                $70
DOUBLE                                       $60                           $84                               $76
TWIN                                            $70                           $84                               $96
TRIPLE                                          $75                           $111                           $147

CONTACTS
Tel: +255 2753691
Cell: +255 763290768
W: www.panamahotelz.com
E: panamahotel@panamahotelz.com

KILIMANJARO BACKPACKERS
This with no harsh terms was a little disappointing as it seems poorly managed and a bit run down. Backpackers hostels are popular to backpackers but this one was empty although with nice rooms which definitely require and little cleaning. It is however stuffy as all the rooms are quite small and narrow corridors looks like they are trying to create space.
The dorm rooms are ok with 4 bunk beds in every room although as the attendant told me "we dont mix black and white mens...which i guess he tried to say not mixing locals and foreigners at least i hope."
They have 4 dorm rooms with capacity for 4 and one has for 5. They also have double and twin rooms and also tiny single rooms
There are only 2 wash rooms which would definitely require new tiles, washing and a bit of air freshener. I have seen smallers ones which are better than this, period!
They have a restaurant of the roof which has a nice ambience and 3 computers twith no internet.
COSTS
                                BB                                 HB                             FB
Single                     $12                                 $18                          $24
Double                   $20                                $32                           $44
Dorm                      $10                               $16                            $22

LEISURE LODGE
A popular place among the local guides and good value. They are usually full altough the reception is quite poor but no surprise for the many places here. Its also the area as the others and have no single, twin or dorm rooms.
The only accommodation is in double rooms with choice for a
> Small bed: Tshs.15,000
> Big bed    : Tshs. 20,00

CONTACTS: 0715-107 376, 0753-107376

HILL STREET HOTEL

Located behind Leisure Lodge, they have an assortment of rooms and strict rules about accommodation behaviour.  They are popular for people from upcountry and most of the rooms will be taken.
Their rooms are just ok and range as follows:
Tripple   30,000
Double : Twin- 20,000
                Big bed- 20000
Single: 15,000
contacts: +255-27 27 53919

ZEBRA HOTEL

A midrange located in the same area as the other budget hotels. They have clean rooms and ok reception. They have a nice bar which is mostly for hotel guests.
Here are the costs.
BB                                                                                                                                                           FB
                       RESIDENT                                          NON RESIDENTS                            RESIDENTS                           NON RESIDENTS
SINGLE          30,000                                                     $30                                                      50,000                                    $45
DOUBLE          30,000                                                    $35                                                      65,000                                   $60
TWIN              35,000                                                     $35                                                       70,000                                  $65
TRIPLE            45,000                                                    $45                                                         80,000                               $75
EXECUTIVE      50,000                                                  $45                                                        110,000                                $100

HB
SINGLE             40,0000                                                $40
DOUBLE             50,000                                                 $50
TWIN                  60,000                                                 $55
TRIPLE               70,000                                                  $65
EXECUTIVE       75,000                                                  $70

BUFFALO HOTEL
Located next to both Zebra hotel, New Castle Hotel and the Indoitaliano bar $ restaurant, has a nice bar and good rooms and is midrange costs.
The rooms are clean and the management is just ok although would use a bit of an excitement spark.

The rooms cost as follows.

DOUBLE EXEC                       35,000
SUITE                                    45,0000
DOUBLE                                30,000
SINGLE                                   25,000/30,000/20,000
TRIPLE                                   30,000
DOUBLE ROOM COMMON     17,000

CONTACTS
0272753736

Olorgesaillie Prehistoric Site

STONE-AGE TOOLS AT OLORGESAILLIE

Ramadan weekend and Nairobi city is not so ideal for such long weekends. Normally everybody heads upcountry to spend the weekend or holiday with their families.
Others will head to the now becoming monotonous Naivasha area, due to its accessibility from Nairobi and I guess the pristine campsites by the lakeside.

Me, Muthoni and Hiram infront of Mt Olokisailie

A stop over at Kisamis shopping center proves quite fulfilling with lots of nyama choma, drinks, amazing views of the hills sorrounding it from Ngong, Ol sayet, Ol oroka and Ol kisailie to the south.

PRACTICALITY
Board a matatu from Railways matatu station just opposite the American embassy bomb blast memorial.
No 125/126 to Kiserian, expect to pay around kshs.50 -100.

From Kiserian at the stage straight up from the Total petrol station, board either a matatu to Magadi or to Kisamis. Either way the only way to Olorgesaillie is magadi bound shuttle cabs which you will have to sit 10 even 12 instead of 7 allowed pax and pay kshs.200.

Birding off the platform

> Jump off at "Museum" and follow the road from the signpost for half a km into the museum.


If you arrive in the heat of the day, you might want to head immediately back to Nairobi. However it cools down and this magadi areas is the lowest in kenya so the heat is too much even for any birds or wildlife to saunter around.







ACCOMMODATION
There are two types of bandas with different prices. There is the old 3 bandas that go for kshs 500 with twin beds and the new concrete bandas that go for kshs. 800 per night with double beds.

Birds of this area are amazingly beautiful- Red and Yellow Barbet here.

If you choose to camp it will be kshs.350 per person and there is a cooking and dining shelter with a bunch of  fire places although things are getting pretty run down and its a shame to see some trees cut down. There are clean long drop pit latrines/outhouses with a built it wooden seat.
There are showers which you will have to bring in water into but are impressively clean.

Local Masai Bird Guide - Will was his name.

You can buy firewood from the women's project at the campsite through Kotikash- the masai night guard; although it now trouble me that they are carelessly cutting down trees even inside the museum as can be seen next to the main fire/camping area. They sell a small pile for a hefty Kshs.250 although is enough to last a night and even barbecue lamb or goat.

The museum with all the stone tools is open to the public and is free for Nature Kenya members. It is not expensive for non residents and as a matter of fact almost same as citizens. Here you will awe at tiny excavation spots with the remains of stone-age tools from our ancestors and there is nothing exhilarating except the escaping the Nairobi hustle and bustle.
For more info Please contact our Travel Desk or Check our Website www.williamstravels.com

Rain, Fog, Snow and Rain Forest

These four characterized each day of my expedition to Mt Kenya last week. It was indeed my first official trip as Williams Travel co. Starting from the offices in Naromoru armed with all the necessary gear and equipment -(anticipating rain); we head up to sirimon gate in a caravan of 3 vehicles- [as usual the good old KRB to bail us out incase we get stuck in the mud]. In the farmland before the plantation Mt kenya reserve, we are warned that many cars are stuck up ahead . With my uncles 4x4 leading- we should give it a name....maybe {The Green Buffalo}; he tows one of the matatus through the deep mud hole.

Driving the farmlands to Sirimon Gate

 After a quick lunch and packing up; we have a welcoming message from the a KWS official - Major Karanja- " Pretty much to take precaution and respect the mountain as the hazards are real and the risks too great"

Quick introduction of the Team- William (guide), Robert (asst guide), David (cook) and a crew of 10 porters one of whom will collect the litter on the mountain. - LNT policy of Williams Travels. Then Team Promulgate introduces themselves and what they do, where they are from and why they want to climb mt kenya. i.e. Charlene(mayor), Al(The Negotiator) , John (the story teller), Jane (official photographer), Martha (photographer 2) , Meredith (team motivator) , Tony (breaks no sweat), Lukas (stripper) , and Chris(the dancer).

 DAY 1; Just rain with snippets of sun to Old moses (3300M), through Bamboo and afro alpine of Hagenia to the edge of the moorland. its a gentle climb taking 3-4 hrs and covering 12km of 650 M altitude. At the camp are people from different organizations and media people who have been to the summit of lenana to put the new constitution.

The track through the rainforest NW approach of the summit

DAY 2: After breakfast and group pic we scale through the bog to the met station  (3790m) and traverse the ridges and valleys- Ontulele and Likii into the U-shaped Mackinders valley on which after lunch at a ideal spot we trudge to the head of it. Shiptons camp is just below the peaks, but this time, its so foggy that you can only see around the camp house.

scrambling to the summit of pt Lenana.

DAY 3; Has an early rise and we start off the climb to Pt Lenana. It has been raining last night and i know this means wet ground which is good on the vertical climb to lenana as at times the sand and gravel is shelled together on cold nights. Again the fog is too much and you can barely see 5m ahead with a headlamp. At around 4 am it starts snowing and this is also good because we'll have a thin layer of snow on the ice on the steep drop from lenana to Austrian hut. With fog and snow, means no sunrise for us but nonetheless we get to be the first group to see the new constitution of Kenya on the summit- hence team promulgate!!

Frozen Flag at 4985m summit

The descent to Mackinders camp (4300m)  at the head of the Teleki valley is fun and easy compared to climb up to lenana!! After breakfast we decide to sleep for 2 hrs-AL and Meredith are already sleeping. Descending to met station was  a different trip by itself. This is the vertical bog and it has been raining for daysl. Its definitely supposed to be a challenge course as its just brutal!  Full of black mad and water, we hiked through the night and opted to just walk through it not minding the water and mud. The jungle in the afro alpine zone to met station was a mud pool; we got muddier here than we had the entire trip.

WILDLIFE GUIDE

WILDLIFE GUIDE FOR EAST AFRICA

I saw a storry recently on the news which got me sad and excited at the same time. It was about some residents of an estate in Nairobi's eastlands area getting scared by a wild cat. So scared by the cat they came out in numbers and the poor animal was condemed to death. They residents thought that a leopard had found its way to thier living areas and a risk to their children. The poor spotted cat was a genet cat (..)

I have decided to do a serialization same as the one with the birds to give lay information about these animals and hopefully during williams travels people will be able to appreciate these animals and the unique beauty that they bring to our planet.

Every week I will post a profile of a bird and a mammal and you are welcome to add more info as comments or places you have seen these species of our amazing planet earth. In the protection of these species vulnerable or not, we are appeasing planet earth to keep on sustaining us and future generations.

Early this week I postes a small profile of the Fish eagle.

MAMMAL OF THE DAY

African Elephant (Loxodonta africana)

Although it can hardly be confused with any other animal, it is worth noting some interesting characteristics of the earth giants. They are pretty easy to see them even on short excursions from Nairobi or any other town in Kenya. They are an awe-inspiring lot with their size especially if you bump into them even if not for the first time. The are amazing to watch at a water hole or baby elephants at orphanages like David Sheldricks orphanange in Nairobi. There are 2 types which are not greatly different; Forest elephant which is found in jungles of Mt Kenya, Aberdares and other forests. The bush which is the bigger brother is found in the savannah like while on game drives in masai mara, Tsavo, Samburu etc. The main difference is the size and number of toes on the feet.

It is different from the Asian elephant (Elephas maximus); by the african being taller and heavier. The asian one has the head being the tallest point and only has one finger-like thing at the trunk while the african has 2.

FACTS

The elephant is impressive with its social unit led by a superior Matriarch with about 10 individuals-cows and calfs. The males are kicked out upon reaching puberty and either live alone or join another boy gang. This social unit is seen for example if they are separated; they usually celebrate upon rejoining each other dance and song of trumpeting, clicking tusks, twining tunks and flapping ears.

They have exuded a high level of intelligence with impeccable memory and claimed to have the best memory of all species on the planet- and the dinosaurs at the bottom ;)

The male can grow upto 3.2m (10.5") in height and weigh about 5000kg; the female is smaller.

The average gestation of african elephant is 22 months, and has the longest gestation among all species.

Forest elephants can walk upto 500km/300 miles in search of food and water and can run at 40km/hr (25mph) and is an exemplary swimmer.

They are seen to have a concept of death; as depicted when they come across a dead one or bones, where they mourn by being quiet and very tense.

It is worth noting that it is under great danger from a) Poaching for ivory b) desertification c) Human-wildlife conflict over land.

N/B

Sport hunting of elephants is sadly legal in countries with export quotas like; Botswana, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Gabon, Cameroon, Tanzania and Namibia

Feel Free to ask question and facts about elephants. Like :

Q: "Do they have teeth or are the tusks their teeth?

A: During its lifetime, the African elephant has a succession of a total of six grinding teeth on each side of its upper and lower jaws. This is the only kind of tooth the elephant has (not counting the tusks). These teeth are very large (weighing 3.7 kg (8.1 lb)). The elephant’s teeth do not replace one another vertically, as is usually the case with mammals, but they come in successively from the back of the mouth, the group of teeth gradually moving forward. As the elephant grinds its food, its teeth are worn down. The oldest teeth, in front, become so worn down as to be of no further use. They eventually are pushed out and replaced by the teeth behind them. After the last of these teeth are worn down, the elephant will die of starvation.

The Great North Road Trip

Starting from Nairobi; me and my lovely travel company of Jessie and Emily Singer, we head for the:

DAY 1

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
This is the area North of Nairobi that used to be known as the 'white highlands'. It boasts the Aberdare ranges and 2nd highest mountain in Africa- Mt Kenya and it forms the eastern boundary of the riftvalley. Its densely populated as its the heartland of the kikuyu people as evidenced by the homesteads all the way through Thika, Makuyu, Sagana, Karatina, kiganjo,Naromoru, Nanyuki, Timau. Its fertile and well watered -the reason why the 'white' settlers chose it for agriculture.
Nanyuki
The matatu takes you to Nanyuki town on the slopes of Mt Kenya. In Nairobi; the matatus leave from Tea Room Stage at the Juction of River rd and the matatu crowded Accra Rd. They leave whenever there are enough passengers; and for this its advisable to opt for the shuttle- 7 seater 'luxury shuttles'-shs.450 and shs 500 or above on holidays. The 10 seaters are also a good option. This journey is 2-2.5 hrs due to the traffic on Thika Rd.
There is a railway which is definitely not an option except for the sheer fun of it-it takes well over 10 hrs to get to Naromoru!!!
I grew up not far from this town which dates back 1907 when the 'white' settlers used it as a trading center and for socializing. Despite being a small town today; its name precedes it, as its home to the Kenyan Air force, Artillery and the British Army. It is also a boundary town of 3 provinces - Central, Rift Valley and Eastern.

Odile's House in Nanyuki

A little south of the town is the Equator crossing and don't expect to feel anything but you can buy some souvenirs at the series of kiosks and at the same time get indulged into some science by the 'professor' who demonstrates the swirling effect with the hemispheres with a bucket and a match.
There are a few things to indulge in this town raging from the night life at the Buccaneers at Sportee (sportsmans Arms hotel), the wildlife conservancies, sanctuaries like the sweet waters.
We spend the night down Lunatic lane at a lovely lady's house- Odile Keane. After a nice warm shower, dinner and fire, our day 1 was done.
DAY 2

Nanyuki-Isiolo
After a morning walk in the pristine backyard down to the river at Odile's house we head up North to Texas (The Fronter town of Isiolo).
This drive takes you through wheat fields and vast grazing farms just on the side of the Great Mountain of the Gods. You will not miss the hoards of casual workers working green houses along the road. A few kilometers from the Meru Junction, look out for the entrance to Lewa Wildlife Conservancy.
Isiolo
I have never been to a more dusty place in my life! However the small frontier town of Isiolo has an ambience and welcoming feeling. Security problems are sporadic and you dont get the feeling while you are there as there are fewer guns visible now. It used to be the 'mwisho wa lami' but now the tarmac road is well laid all the way to Laisamis and its said it will go all the way to Moyale hence making travel to Ethiopia easier and safer, and I guess even trade. The overland safaris of Cape to Cairo will definitely restart as this stretch from samburu - Moyale Kenya used to be the problem. After cleaning up at my aunts house; we then venture into town and relax at Bomen hotel for a cold beer. Although there are lots of things to do in this town like visiting the bracelet factory, hitting Frontier Club or visit to local manyattas, we opt to plan on how to get to Marsabit and the Loiyangalani. We also get nice and cheap bracelets from these sketchy guys who one ofcourse becomes a good friend of mine as I am Rasta to him.
We realize that going to Marsabit-> North Horr-> Loiyangalani might take more days than we have on our hands, so opt to go to Maralal and hopefully find a way to Baragoi and into Loiyangalani.
 
DAY 4- Isiolo->Wamba-> Maralal
Having booked the earliest matatu to Wamba the day before, we get to the stage at 9 am and dont leave until 11.30 am. While waiting, our stroll into town brings all the blacksmiths, and we blend in with the locals by buying a huge arsernal of swords, knives and bronze bracelets.
Heading up north through Archers Post, and samburu land, you leave Samburu National Park, Shaba National Reserve and Buffallo Springs behind and then branching off West towards Wamba on a dirt road. Note the old acclaimed Babie Coach is not an option- there are occasional matatus. Kshs. 350 + kshs. 350 to Maralal.
Wamba is 90 km Northwest of Isiolo through acacia scrub and mountain and sand country. North east of Wamba is the famours Mathew's Range- a naturalists mine. Mt Warges (2,688m) is prominent all through the journey, others are- Mathew's South Peak-2,284m, Lolokwe-1,852m, and Poror-2,581m. I immediately decide that these mountains will be in my future bushwhacking plans- wait for it. Who knows- this might become and itinerary for Williams Travel Co.
In Wamba we stop over to stretch and change matatus; and also, catch a warm beer at the cyber space bar. There is a nice guest house with single/double rooms here, -Stato Guest House.
The road to Maralal has lots of wildlife if you are lucky to spot it and breath taking views like looking down into the Lerochi Plateau. Its quite green as you near Maralal and the drive from isiolo takes well over 8 hours. Here you will be met like us by the "Plastic Boys". It helps to be polite to them as they will show you around. They can be a bit annoying especially to female travelers like they were to Jessie.
We settle for accommodation at "Sunbird Guest House"- clean,quiet and cheap. You can special favour for a beer since they don't have a bar - nowander it was expired. The meals which take long are also a little expensive.
The town itself has basic ammenities although very dusty. You will see alot of traditionally garbed Samburu men with blankets, spears, beads and ocre styled hairs- they are not dressed up for the tourists.
 
DAY 3 Maralal-Nyahururu.After breakfast at Hard Rock Cafe; we realise after calling "Baby Amu"- the town merchant who has trucks going to Loiyangalani and also with the plastic boys, that its impossible to go to L.Turkana, since Emily has to fly in 3 days.
It is possible to do short hikes around the town or visit manyattas-for ceremonies like the wedding we are invited but decline.
We decide to head down to Nyahururu and see the T-Falls (Thompson's Falls). Getting into and out Maralal is as tricky. We get an offer to take a Police landcruiser to Nyahururu but then meet a teacher going with his family to Nakuru and hitch a ride- or overpay inorder for the plastic boys who found it for us to get something.
The ride is long through rough road and dust, ranches and loads of wildlife in the ranches. The driver says the road is relatively dangerous and when we reach Suguta Lol Marmar, he splits his money and hides it under the steering wheel, into the socks, wife's bra and other places. He says every week a car is car jacked by pokot and samburu layabouts especially at a spot called " 2 things"- 'either you make or dont'
After 6 hours we check into Thompson's Falls Lodge and pitch tent next to a big overland truck with several dutch families.
After a warm shower, we have a huge dinner in their dining room facing the falls and sit by the fire place in the bar and doze off except for Emily.
Nyahururu is the highest town in kenya at 2,360m and the climate is amazing although at times thought to be cold with occassional frost falling and at times heavy hailstorms, with huge blocks of ice.
The town like Nanyuki is just a few kilometers north of the equator and is equally old and the railway reached here in 1929. The settlers also found it ideal and even had a racecourse. Thompson's Falls dropping 75 m were name T Falls by explorer Joseph Thompson after his father. Note you will have to pay to see the falls to the county council- they have to have yellow overcoats. There is trio of kikuyu dancers will break into one once they see you coming down and jump right to you and take pics with you, right after which they ask for money!! 200 per person!! You can give the much you want since the pics are amazing ;)
 
DAY 4-Nyahururu->Nairobi
There is a series of souvenir shops outside the lodge that we venture into and then pack up to head back to the city but not before taking pics with the kikuyu dancers- enjoy!!\
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The trip is great and pretty easy to do with enough time.

IDEAL:
> Nairobi-Isiolo-Marsabit-North Horr and Into Loiyangalani.-Baragoi- Maralal-Nairobi. (alternatively also cross the lake to Kalokol and Lodwar- Kitale or Marich Pass then Nairobi.
> Nairobi-Maralal-Baragoi-Loiyangalani, but the easiest with a night over in Kitale is the Lodwar side.